The Rieti plain is known, to both believers and non-believers, as the Holy Valley. This appellation is due to the inseparable link with the figure of St. Francis of Assisi, who loved these places in a profound and sincere way, crossing them on numerous journeys and peregrinations, so much so as to make them almost a third homeland, next to the Sanctuary of La Verna in Arezzo and in Assisi itself.
The four Franciscan sanctuaries
The signs of Francis’ passage can be seen by the four Franciscan sanctuaries erected in the valley, located in areas where the traces of the saint are most alive and felt, where important events in his life and his faith have taken place. United by ideal lines on the map, they draw, in a very evocative way, a cross.
Thus, we have the Poggio Bustone Sanctuary, the first arrival point, in the Holy Valley, for Francis and his companions. That of Fonte Colombo, site of the eye operation, theater of the saint’s miraculous resistance in front of and under the boiling cautery. But also, of the compiling of the Franciscan Rule, to regulate the life and works of Franciscans from all over the world. Greccio, ideal scenery, with its simple and suggestive landscape, for the representation of the Nativity, the first manger of Christianity.
And finally, Santa Maria della Foresta, where Francis performed the miracle of the grape and perhaps composed some parts of the Canticle of the Creatures: the two churches complete the list of Franciscan sanctuaries, reachable individually, of course, but above all in the context of the paths into which the ‘Cammino di Francesco’ is divided, which aims to follow in the footsteps of the friar.
The landscape wonders offered by the ‘Cammino di Francesco’ in Sabina
To set out and follow, ideally, the paths of Francis does not only mean retracing his works and remembering his preaching. There is certainly also this component, essential especially for the faithful, but the fascination of walking, of embarking on a slow journey, where vehicles are banned, of basking in landscape wonders of rare and authentic beauty, remains powerful and of great appeal. After all, it was the Creator that aroused the constant amazement in the eyes of Francis, and in his wonders, he saw the will of God reflected.
The area’s natural beauty enchants the sight of the traveler. The route also winds through some of the picturesque medieval Sabina villages.
In particular, the fourth stop-over of the ‘Direttrice Tiberina’, a variant of the path that passes through the Sabina around the Tiber, starts from Calvi dell’Umbria and goes to Selci: it is one of the oldest routes in the Sabina region and it is the very same path that Francis once took. This portion of the itinerary passes through Cicignano and Collevecchio, and the two small villages, one a hamlet of the other, are among the main reasons of interest and attraction.
The ‘Via di Francesco’ in Cicignano and Collevecchio
The rest and shelter offered by the circular walls of Cicignano are irresistible for the satisfied, but tired, traveler. Upon exploring the town center, actually not very extensive as can be seen by the walls, one notes that the dimensions are inversely proportional to the quantity of beauty present. Once back on the road, we come across, along the ‘via dei Cappuccini’, the Franciscan convent of Sant’Andrea, built at the end of the sixteenth century and famous for its remains of Father Benedetto da Aspra Sabina: a very well-known friar in the surroundings who died, as they say, in an aura of holiness.
After Sant’Andrea, which in fact is roughly halfway between the two centers, we reach Collevecchio. This medieval urban layout, which also houses Renaissance buildings, in a happy union, will amaze the visitor. Here, a must see is a visit to the Collegiate Church of the Santissima Annunziata, dating back to the 12th century.
After a stop in Cicignano and Collevecchio and a refreshing night spent at Le Residenze del Borgo, pilgrims will be able to continue walking: there are numerous itineraries which can be weaved and created according to one’s interests and personal combinations. And according to the time available. All you need to do is… start walking! La Sabina awaits you.
