We’d like to suggest an itinerary in Sabina, in the region of Lazio, for your holidays or even just for a Sunday trip out of town. Ideal, if you like to visit small historic villages, picturesque castles and, at the same time, feed on nature, panoramas and immerse yourself in the sacred woods. Today we take you to Vacone, in the province of Rieti.
This village is also known by the name of “terrazza della Sabina” the Sabina terrace, because – thanks to its position, at 512 metres above sea level – it is perched on a rocky spur – a ridge of the Sabine Mountains – from which it dominates the entire valley below it, casting its gaze up to Mount Soratte. You will not find it difficult to recognize the Soratte before your eyes, because it appears as an island that emerges from the “sea” of the Sabine countryside.
Here, among olive groves and the Mediterranean scrub, it is thought that the first settlements date back to pre-Roman times, although there are no clear traces of them to date. The perched and dominant position on the valley below has probably made this area a safe place for the birth of a small village initially and a fuller settlement afterwards. On the other hand, there are clear signs dating back to the medieval period, which can be seen by the village’s typical narrow and winding streets, the castle erected in the highest part – today owned by a private individual and therefore not visitable inside – and the wall which to date has completely disappeared, with the exception of the main door that opens at the foot of a tower with a clock that will welcome you when entering Vacone.
The etymology of the name: where does the toponym “Vacone” come from?
The Sabine village Vacone name derives from the Vacuna Goddess and from the fact that located somewhere in this area was a so-called fanum vacunae, that is a temple dedicated to the Goddess. In Sabina, the cult of Vacuna was quite widespread. It is said that a statuette was kept inside the Hermitage of San Michele on Mount Tancia that represented the Goddess, to whom it seems that the Grotto itself was dedicated. Today the statuette is no longer visible because it mysteriously disappeared a few decades ago.
Revered as the goddess of fertility, Vacuna was also the protector of rest, leisure and entertainment in the countryside, aimed at restoring one’s spirit and physical health., In fact, the term vacare, thus vacanze (vacation), seems to derive from Vacuna.
Monte Cosce and the Hermitage of Sant’Orsola
The town of Vacone is perched on the slopes of Monte Cosce (1,124 metres). A mount of modest height, but of imposing size that is visible – on clear days – even from the centre of Rome, with its unmistakable giant antennas placed on its summit.
Monte Cosce is an excellent trekking destination with a modest difference in height. After a couple of hours, maximum, you are at the top, starting from the town of Vacone. For those who are not fully trained and not equipped with a good pair of hiking shoes, we suggest stopping at the Hermitage of Sant’Orsola. The hermitage is reached by following the asphalt road that climbs up from the village towards the mountain, entering the woods. The arrival at the hermitage marks the end of the road and from here you continue on only via the CAI path. We advise you to be careful because the path that goes up to Monte Cosce is not marked very well in all its sections.
The Hermitage is a pleasant place, shaded and full of peace and tranquillity. It is the annual destination of the procession on the occasion of the feast of Pentecost. Open the wooden gate that you will find partially closed, and enjoy the bliss.
The Autumn Festival in Vacone
The Autumn Festival, which takes place at the end of October, is the ideal time if you’re thinking of organizing a trip out of town to Vacone and rediscover the ancient flavours of the Sabine cuisine. On this occasion you can taste the typical dishes of the season: polenta, sausages, chestnuts, new wine, fregnacce alla sabinese and strozzapreti (both are typical homemade paste). All of this can be found in the setting of Pago, the magical forest which had already been described by Pliny in ancient times. A place dear to the inhabitants of Vacone, who are particularly linked to it.
